Diarmuid Goodwin X Dúchas

Listen, we’ve all had those “meh” nights out in London where the food is fine, the vibes are... existing, and you leave wondering if you should’ve just stayed home with a takeaway. Then there are nights like this one at Homeboy Bar in Islington, where chef Diarmuid Goodwin rocked up for a kitchen takeover at Dúcas and reminded everyone why we bother leaving the house.

Spoiler alert: it was excellent, zero regrets, and my only complaint is that I didn’t book a second night.

The Food That Stole the Show

We won’t spoil every detail (there's one epic dish we didn't try because someone who wears a hat refuses to eat black pudding 🎩), but expect dishes that balance nostalgia with “wait, this is next level.” Rich, satisfying plates that pair ridiculously well with Homeboy’s legendary Guinness pours and their cracking paired cocktail list. One bite and you’re plotting your return visit before you’ve even finished chewing.

It’s the kind of meal that turns a random Thursday into a core memory. Or a Friday into “why did we ever eat anywhere else?” The portions hit that sweet spot — small enough that you can try the whole menu (and you WILL want to) and refined enough that you don’t roll out the door (though no promises after that extra round or two of the doughnuts).

The Vibe Check

What makes this takeover special isn’t just the food — it’s the whole package. Lively but not chaotic - with live-music on Thursday (we tapped our feet to the incredible Declan Carrier), warm without trying too hard, and filled with people enjoying themselves, including their dogs - in this case Peggy the ultimate "Homegirl" 🐶. You’ll hear laughter, clinking glasses, and probably a few “we need to come back” conversations at neighbouring tables. That’s the magic of Homeboy: it feels like home, if your home had award-worthy drinks and a chef dropping bangers in the kitchen.

Why does the first dish always end up being our favourite?! The Potato Doughnuts are so addictive - who knew savoury doughnuts were a thing. The Coolea custard made with Neal's Yard Dairy cheese was so delicious and the gooseberry mustard gave it the perfect kick. Please send us a plate of 10 and watch us inhale them! 🍩 + 🧀 = 🔥

Lizzy Wharton is mixing up magic behind the bar and there's a paired cocktail menu for the Dúcas series which you have to try before it's gone.

McCool is nostalgia in a glass. Picture an adult version of Cherry Coke or Pepsi Wild Cherry mixed with Aberfeldy 12 whisky, maraschino liqueur, Noilly Pratt vermouth (which is fast becoming Sidetrack's favourite vermouth in the headquarters), passion fruit syrup, lemon and cherry soda. All the fun of being a teenager but with a valid ID.

Up next from the kitchen was the Veal Tartare and Artichoke & Rosemary Rosti with succulent meat from Turner & George Butchers, caramelized anchovy and pickled apricot. Imagine a hash brown elevated to the highest possible level.

Diarmuid is a champion for both Irish and London producers, sourcing the best quality and most authentic ingredients to add the right amounts of tradition and modern twists to his dishes. For this menu the vegetables are sourced from Rushton's Green Grocer, the cheese from Velvet Cloud and Neil's Yard Dairy, the seafood from Fin and Flounder, the meat from Turner & George Butchers.

Lizzy describes the Luca as a Hugo's cooler brother and it's so refreshing with Beefeater gin, St. Germain, lemon sherbet, a pink peppercorn tincture and Perrier-Jouët champagne. 🍾

Seafood lovers will adore the Seabass Crudo sourced from Fin and Flounder. For foodie-newbies a "crudo" is the Spanish and Italian word for "raw" meaning the fish is uncooked like sashimi in Japan or ceviche in Peru. This one is served with a smoked tomato & peach aguachile and spring onion.

Trust us you'll love it and you can drop your newfound vocabulary next time you have a crudo so you can sound like an expert. 😹

It was definitely "Martini Time" 🍸 to help us calm down after all these game-changing starters. Luckily Lizzy's Strawberry Martini with Grey Goose vodka, Noilly Pratt vermouth and an epic mineral strawberry modifier and mind-blowing The Ace with Patrón Reposado tequila, Noilly Pratt vermouth, Mediterranean tomato water and a black peppercorn & celery salt tincture did the trick.

The most ideal summer dish has to be the Sheep Milk Labneh & Chilled Melon Salad, it's so refreshing with a medley of melon, black olive salsa matcha (you know green tea is totally viral now) and cucumber granita on a bed of the creamiest labneh from Velvet Cloud.

The showstopper was the Seaweed Stuffed Lamb Belly with tender lamb that falls off the fork from from Turner & George Butchers in the most jus and wholesome creamed leeks and samphire on the side. A fellow patron stopped mid-step on his way to the facilities to do a double take during this photograph and commented "that looks delicious" so you don't have to only take our word for it.

Perfect cocktails to accompany dessert, the Whiskey Smash is what we imagine a four-leaf clover in a glass should taste like with Jameson Irish whiskey, Noilly Pratt vermouth, mint & spinach cordial and orange bitters. While the Punk Poet puts a dark chocolate spin on an Old Fashioned with Wild Turkey 101 bourbon, orange zest infused oil, Mozart Distillery dark chocolate liqueur and Demerara sugar. It's a liquid lunch for your sweet tooth 🦷

As for the final scene, cue the Cherry & Pink Peppercorn Ricotta Cake is the perfect end to a perfect ending. An enigmatic spin on a Cherry Bakewell with a handsome serving of ricotta and fresh cherries on the side - how can you resist?! 🍒

Should You Go?

Yes. Immediately. Whether you’re a local Islington legend, a Belfast or Dublin transplant missing proper flavours, or just someone who appreciates food that makes you happy, Diarmuid’s takeover is the real deal. Book a table, bring your people, and prepare to have a genuinely great night.

Have you caught Diarmuid in action or been to Homeboy yet? Drop your favourite dish or wildest night out story in the comments — we’re always here for the chaos and the recommendations.

Until next time, eat well, laugh loud, and support the chefs who make London taste this good. 🍻

See the full menu and book your table at the Homeboy website - we'll be there next week for Paddy Maher's takeover — so say hi and pull up a stool if you spot us there (you'll know by the flashes 📸) and if not, watch this space for our next Homeboy feature!