Listen. We don’t venture past the North Circular unless there’s a very good reason. It’s basically the edge of the known universe as far as Sidetrack is concerned. Beyond that ring of dual-carriageway doom? Dragons. Or at least very long bus rides and the vague sense that you’ve left “proper London” behind.
But then someone mentioned proper Persian kebabs, clay-oven bread, and olives swimming in walnut-pomegranate magic in North Finchley… and suddenly the North Circular looked less like a force field and more like a mild suggestion.
So off we went to Mehr O Mah (Mehr O Mah – roughly “Sun and Moon”, which feels appropriately dramatic for a place that takes grilling this seriously). Family-run, cosy and that classic North London Persian energy: generous plates, fragrant rice, and the kind of charcoal-grilled meat that makes you wonder why you ever settled for lesser skewers. It’s right on the High Road in N12, all casual and welcoming – perfect for a proper sit-down feast rather than a quick in-and-out.
The Starters: Where Things Get Deliciously Weird (in the best way)
Persian menus are full of names that look like they might summon something ancient if you say them wrong. Fear not – we ordered a little of everything and came prepared with translations.
Zaytoon Parvardeh – green olives marinated with lemon juice, olive oil, walnut and pomegranate sauce. These are not your sad supermarket olives. They’re glossy, tangy, nutty little flavour bombs. One of those dishes where you keep “just having one more” until the bowl mysteriously empties. 🫒
Dolmeh Barg-E-Mo – vine leaves stuffed with rice and aromatic herbs. Soft, herby, gently spiced parcels. Classic Persian comfort that somehow still feels light.
Naan Konjedi – traditional flatbread with garlic and olive oil, freshly baked in a clay oven. Hot, soft, slightly charred, glistening with oil and garlic. We tore into it like people who hadn’t seen bread in weeks. Essential vehicle for everything that followed.
Masto O Moosir – thick yoghurt dip with garlic shallots (moosir). Cool, creamy, punchy. The perfect counterbalance to the richer stuff. Dip the naan. Dip the olives. Dip your resolve to save room for mains.
The Mains: Skewers vs Salmon Showdown
Mario went full Persian Makhsoos – one skewer of lamb fillet + one skewer of minced lamb (koobideh-style), served with rice and grilled tomato. Juicy, properly charred, deeply seasoned. The minced lamb skewer especially was pure joy – that perfect soft-yet-crisp texture you only get when it’s done right over proper heat. Accompanied by the kind of fluffy rice that somehow soaks up all the good juices without turning into mush.
Being a good pescatarian, I went for the Salmon – marinated in olive oil, oregano and lemon juice, then barbecued and served with rice. Surprisingly excellent. The marinade kept it moist and bright, the barbecue gave it that lovely smoky edge, and it still felt properly Persian rather than a random fish interlude. Proof that the grill here isn’t just for red meat.
Dessert: Ice Cream with Ambition
We finished with Makhloot and the Makhloot & Bastani variation. Bastani is the proper Persian ice cream situation (often saffron-rosewater vibes, though here it played nicely with the vanilla and pistachios). Creamy, nutty, not too sweet, and the perfect cool full-stop after all that grilled goodness.
Quick Persian Glossary (because the menu is half the fun)
- Zaytoon = olives
- Parvardeh = the fancy marinated treatment
- Masto = yoghurt
- Moosir = those special shallot/garlic situations
- Dolmeh / Dolma = stuffed things (usually vine leaves)
- Barg-E-Mo = vine leaf
- Makhsoos = “special” (i.e. the mixed skewer glory)
- Naan Konjedi = the sesame/garlic flatbread of dreams
- Bastani = Persian ice cream (do not skip)
Mehr O Mah is exactly the sort of place that makes the trek past the North Circular feel like a smart life choice rather than a logistical error. Warm service, proper portions, authentic flavours, and that comforting feeling of being looked after.
Would we cross the ring road again for it? Absolutely. Especially if there’s more of that naan involved.
Go on. Be brave. The dragons are just traffic. 🐉➡️🍢
Credits
- Author Cat Morley
- Photographer Mario Mitsis

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